One of the most common issues faced by novice photographers is blurry photos. The reasons behind this are often more complex than just "incorrect focusing" or "camera shake"; they require a comprehensive analysis combining the shooting scene, equipment settings, and operational details. Below is an explanation from common causes to solutions to help you accurately identify the problem.

I. First, judge: The "type" of blur holds key clues

Different types of blur can directly point to the root cause. Observing the details of the photo first and then troubleshooting will be more efficient:

- "Overall blurriness": There is no clear area in the picture, with everything from the foreground to the background being blurry. This situation is likely related to the focusing mode or shooting mode rather than camera shake.

- "Partial clarity, subject blur": For example, when taking portraits, the background is clear but the face is blurry, or when shooting still life, the edges are clear but the center is blurry. This is a typical case of "focusing error".

- "Edge trailing": Obvious trailing marks on the edges of the subject (such as moving vehicles, walking people), or slight tilt blur in the picture, are more likely caused by "camera shake" or "insufficient shutter speed".

- "Starry blur": Random blurry spots appear in the picture, especially noticeable in night or low-light environments. This may be due to image quality degradation caused by excessively high ISO, rather than focusing or camera shake issues.

II. Core reason 1: Poor focusing – "The camera didn't focus on the area you wanted to be clear"

Focusing is the process by which the camera "locks onto the subject". Novices often fail to focus on the subject because they are not familiar with the camera's focusing modes.

1. Wrong focusing mode selected

There are three common focusing modes in cameras, and choosing the wrong one for the scene can easily lead to blurriness:

- Auto Focus (AF) but incorrect use of "single point" vs "multi-point":

When shooting a single subject (such as portraits, still life), using "multi-point focusing" causes the camera to automatically select areas with high contrast in the picture (such as background leaves, distant lights) for focusing, while ignoring the foreground subject. When shooting dynamic scenes (such as moving pets, running children), using "single-point focusing" makes it impossible for the finger to move the focusing frame along with the subject in time, resulting in a blurry subject.

- Accidentally switching to Manual Focus (MF) without adjustment:

Novices may accidentally touch the "AF/MF" switch on the lens, switch to manual focus, and then fail to turn the focusing ring, leaving the lens in a "defocused state", and the resulting photos will naturally be completely blurry.

2. Wrong focusing "target" selected

Even with auto-focus on, the camera needs you to "tell it where to focus":

- Many novices do not aim at the subject first when half-pressing the shutter (for example, not aiming at the eyes when taking portraits) but press it all the way down. The camera will default to focusing on the center of the picture. If the subject is not in the center, it will result in "the center is clear, but the subject is blurry".

- When shooting close-up objects (such as flowers, jewelry within 30cm), exceeding the lens's "minimum focusing distance" (the minimum focusing distance varies for different lenses, generally between 10cm-50cm), the lens cannot complete focusing, and the picture will inevitably be blurry.

3 practical tips to solve focusing problems:

- For static subjects (such as landscapes, still life), use "single-point focusing + center composition". Half-press the shutter to lock the focus, then fine-tune the composition.

- For dynamic subjects (such as pets, children), switch to "continuous focusing (AF-C/AI SERVO)", and the camera will track the moving subject and automatically adjust the focus.

- When unsure if focusing is successful, observe the camera viewfinder: wait until the focusing frame turns green (or a "beep" prompt sounds) before fully pressing the shutter.

III. Core reason 2: Camera shake or insufficient shutter speed – "The picture is blurred due to 'shaking'"

If focusing issues are ruled out, blurriness is likely related to "handheld stability" or "shutter speed", especially noticeable in low-light scenes.

1. Shutter speed is too slow – "Unable to hold steadily by hand"

Shutter speed is an indicator of the camera's "exposure time", measured in seconds (such as 1/100s, 1/30s). The slower the speed, the longer the lens takes to capture the image, and even slight hand movements will be recorded, resulting in trailing.

- Safe shutter speed: For novice handheld shooting, the shutter speed is recommended to be no lower than the "reciprocal of the lens focal length". For example, with a 50mm lens, the shutter speed should be faster than 1/50s; with a 200mm telephoto lens, the shutter speed should be faster than 1/200s. Below this value, the impact of hand shake will be amplified.

- Hidden trap in low-light environments: In indoor, cloudy, or night conditions, when light is insufficient, the camera will automatically reduce the shutter speed (such as 1/15s, 1/8s) to brighten the picture. Even if you feel "your hands are not shaking", slight breathing or arm movements can cause the picture to blur.

2. Incorrect handheld posture – "Poor stability foundation"

Even if the shutter speed is sufficient, incorrect camera-holding posture can amplify shaking:

- One-handed holding: Many novices are used to holding the camera with one hand (especially with lightweight mirrorless cameras). The arm lacks support points, and uneven finger force when pressing the shutter can cause the camera to tilt.

- Pressing the shutter too hard: A sudden press on the shutter with the finger will cause slight displacement of the camera, and this "instant shake" will directly lead to blurry pictures, especially when the shutter speed is slow.

4 key methods to solve camera shake problems:

- Prioritize increasing shutter speed in low light: You can open the aperture wider (such as using lenses with f/1.8, f/2.8) or appropriately increase ISO (novices can first accept slight noise to ensure the shutter speed is above the safe value).

- Develop the habit of "holding the camera with both hands": Hold the camera body with your right hand, touch the shutter lightly with your index finger, hold the bottom of the lens with your left hand, and clamp your arms tightly to your body, using your body as a support point.

- Make good use of "shutter release" or "timed shooting": When shooting night scenes, macro shots, and other scenes that require slow shutters, use a shutter release to avoid camera shake when pressing the shutter; if there is no shutter release, set a 2-second timer, press the shutter, and wait for the camera to stabilize before exposing.

- Use external support: Place the camera on fixed objects such as a desktop or railing, or use a tripod directly to completely solve the problem of camera shake.

IV. Easily overlooked "hidden reasons"

In addition to focusing and camera shake, these details can also cause blurriness, which novices often overlook:

1. The lens is not tightened or the "image stabilization function" is used incorrectly

- The lens is not rotated into place during installation, leaving a gap between the lens and the camera body. Slight shaking during shooting will cause the picture to blur.

- "Lens stabilization" is turned on but a tripod is used: The stabilization function is effective when handheld, but when mounted on a tripod, the slight shaking of the stabilization lens will cause the picture to blur. At this time, the stabilization function (the "VR" or "IS" button on the lens) needs to be turned off.

2. The subject "moved" while the shutter couldn't keep up

When shooting moving objects (such as flying birds, running people), even if the focus is accurate and the hands are steady, a too-slow shutter speed will cause the subject to be blurry. For example, when shooting a running person, a shutter speed of at least 1/250s is needed to "freeze" the action; below this speed, trailing will occur.

3. Camera "shutter lag" is mistakenly judged as blurriness

Some entry-level cameras or mobile phones have a lag of 0.5-1 second after pressing the shutter (especially during auto-focus and auto-metering). If the camera is not kept stable until the shutter completes exposure during shooting, it will be mistakenly thought that the blurriness is caused by camera shake. The solution is to keep the camera stable for an extra second after pressing the shutter.

V. Summary: 3-step quick troubleshooting process

When encountering blurry photos, follow this process to quickly find the cause:

1. Check if there is a clear area in the picture: If there is a clear area → focusing problem; if there is no clear area → shutter speed or equipment setting problem.

2. Check the shutter speed: Review the photo parameters (available in the "details" in the camera album). If it is lower than the safe shutter speed → caused by camera shake or subject movement.

3. Test shooting for comparison: Fix the camera with a tripod and shoot the same static object. If it is clear → previous blurriness was due to camera shake; if it is still blurry → focusing or lens problem.

Photography is a combination of "equipment settings" and "operational details". Novices need not be anxious about blurriness. Spend 1 minute reviewing photo parameters after each shoot and compare the types of blurriness in different scenes. You will soon develop the ability to "predict problems" and take more and more clear photos.

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